Few collecting categories have broader appeal than jewelry. Pragmatic collectors are enticed by the intrinsic value of precious metals and gems. Discriminating collectors are drawn to unparalleled craftsmanship by the world’s most revered makers. Whimsical collectors appreciate the wide variety of styles and materials available at every price point. And, an entire collection can fit into a simple, table-top chest.
Despite the sheer volume of buying options, a well-curated jewelry anthology is best built with a focused eye, attention to detail and a basic understanding of the market. “Buy what makes you smile,” is an oft-used quote in the Garth’s saleroom. What, exactly, do we mean? First and foremost, vintage and antique purchases should be made with interest, enthusiasm - and, even passion. Elizabeth Taylor said it best, "It's not the having, it's the getting." Sophisticated collectors understand that building a collection is, at least, a hobby and at best, a lifestyle. Take your time, enjoy the process, and learn about the items that appeal to you.
Once you have identified a style or period that best suits your tastes, buy the best in that category that you can afford. Take note of the maker, the setting, and the quality of the materials. When a prime example comes up, “don’t be sorry tomorrow.” Stretch a bit if you must, but know that an investment in a high quality addition to your collection will likely reap terrific rewards - for both your enjoyment as well as financial return. Advanced collectors often utilize a “trade-up” approach, culling their early, more affordable acquisitions in favor of better, pricier pieces as they come available.
Finally, buy with an awareness of current market conditions. Like any investment category, jewelry is subject to supply and demand. Fashion trends can impact specific periods and styles for the short-term; although commodity prices directly impact prices of gold, silver and platinum. Hot categories in today’s market include silver, gold and well-known contemporary makers including Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, Seaman Schepps, Hermes, and Cartier. Prices for these desirable finds are reaching all-time highs. But, there are bargains to be had. Savvy shoppers will find good buys in pearls, old European-cut diamonds, and watches - including pocket watches, watch fobs and wrist-watches (particularly early examples by well-known makers such as Patek Phillipe).
Looking for a way to feed your budding vintage jewelry habit? Avoid high-traffic auction sites that appeal to the masses and mask buyer and seller identities. Instead, search online for reputable auction firms and dealers, preferably with bricks-and-mortar shops that compliment their online business. Some of our favorites are artfact.com, invaluable.com, 1stdibs.com and rubylane.com.
Sidebar:
A quick overview of popular styles:
- Antique: over 100 years old, encompassing a wide variety, from the elaborate ornamentation of the late 18th C through the clean lines of the Neoclassical period, and into the delicate designs of the late-Victorian era. Until the late 19th C, resetting stones into the latest fashion was common. As a result, very good early pieces are quite rare and historically important.
- Art Nouveau: 1890 - 1910, a brief but impactful period of wonderful artistry, recognized for flowing lines and taking its inspiration from nature.
- Belle Epoque: 1895-1914, a period during which the highest quality materials and craftsmanship were revered, with a sophisticated drape being the most influential design (think garland). Also, the rise of the house of Cartier.
- Art Deco: 1915 - 1935, marked by bold, geometric patterns and lines with an appreciation for strong contrast. Accessories spoke to a self-possessed, confident woman.
- Retro: 1940’s and 1950’s, the careful and conservative purchases during wartime spawned a simple, even masculine take on accessories. Less was more, and materials were affordable.
- Mod: 60’s and 70’s, marked by daring design, bold colors and styles inspired by a distinctively East-world flare.
- Contemporary, in recent years, designers have taken tremendous liberty - from reinventing vintage concepts to a complete abandonment of conventional style. Technology and manufacturing practices have allowed for more futuristic settings and cuts, including the patent of a heart-shaped diamond. Design houses with long histories are experiencing a revival - with Tiffany & Co. (founded 1837) leading the pack.
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